by Bill Ingersoll
Published: February 2010
Colden is a cone-shaped peak that from a distance appears to be a mass of solid, smooth rock with a thin film of vegetation covering its less precipitous slopes. It ranks 11th in height amongst all the Adirondack peaks, but because of its central location between Marcy and Algonquin – two mountains with elevations in excess of 5,000 feet – it sometimes seems small by comparison.
However, that central location also makes it a favorite among hikers. It is reasonably accessible from the Adirondack Mountain Club’s Heart Lake trailhead, and its views are outstanding. Colden is a summit that is worth many repeated visits. Indeed, it is routinely climbed from four main routes, including the two state hiking trails leading to the summit. Of those, the route that climbs via Lake Arnold is the easiest and the best suited for a winter ascent.
Getting There
From downtown Lake Placid, take NY Route 73 south past the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex to Adirondack Loj Road and turn right, south. Follow this road all the way to its end, at the Adirondack Mountain Club’s entrance booth. The club does charge a fee for parking – members get a discount. The parking area is to the left of the booth. If there is no attendant on hand, you can pay at the hikers’ information center at the corner of the lot.
The Trail
It is such an easy trail to follow, in terms of navigation, that you need few directions. The route may be so hard-packed from ski and snowshoe traffic that you may be tempted not to wear your snowshoes, but DEC regulations prohibit “bare boot” hiking when there is eight or more inches of snow on the ground. This is intended to prevent postholing – the creation of deep potholes by people sinking into the snow.
The well-marked trunk trail leaves the southeast corner of the xe "Adirondak Loj"Adirondak Loj parking area, headed toward xe "Marcy Dam"Marcy Dam. This 2.3-mile trail is one of the most heavily traveled routes in the Adirondacks, and one that you’ll no doubt see many times again on repeat visits to the High Peaks. It is a pleasant woodland walk, winding over rolling terrain through hardwood forests.
When you reach Marcy Dam – a wooden structure disproportionately large compared to the tiny pond it creates – you will of course be stopped by the stunning view of Mount Colden and Avalanche Mountain. Just as many hikers’ boots have traveled these trails, many cameras have captured this scene. In the morning as you hike in, or late in the afternoon as you hike out, will be the best times to take your picture as the sunlight falls on the mountains from the east or west.
Just beyond the dam, the VanHoevenberg Trail forks left toward Phelps and Marcy. Here you have a choice: to continue straight on the shortest, most direct route to Colden, or to take a scenic detour via Indian Falls. If you are feeling strong and have plenty of time at your disposal, then by all means consider the detour, which will add only 1.1 miles to your day. The VanHoevenberg Trail ascends moderately at first, and then more steeply after crossing Phelps Brook. It reaches the top of Indian Falls 2.3 miles from Marcy Dam, or 4.6 miles overall. A short side trip to the right brings you to the top of the falls, with its outstanding panorama of the MacIntyre Mountains and Colden. Immediately past the falls, a connector trail turns right and leads to a junction with the route to Lake Arnold in 0.8-mile more.
If you choose not to go to Indian Falls, then continue straight on the well-traveled trail to Avalanche Lake, which follows Marcy Brook southwest from Marcy Dam. You pass several lean-tos and reach a prominent junction one-mile past the pond. Turn left toward Lake Arnold and Mount Colden. Watch for another left turn a short distance later as the hiking trail leaves the main Avalanche Pass ski trail.
What follows is an 814-foot climb in one-mile to a junction with the connector trail from Indian Falls – the end of the above-mentioned scenic detour. The trail then continues to climb another 0.5-mile and 325 feet to Lake Arnold. This entire section is quite pleasant in winter, when the trail is a snowy pathway beside the ever-diminishing brook. This is a big improvement over the summer conditions, when the trail’s erosion is exposed. You reach the Lake Arnold junction 4.8 miles from the trailhead. Turn right, and in a few yards come to this scenic, high-elevation pond located at about 3,750 feet.
The final ascent to the summit of Mount Colden from Lake Arnold is 1.2 miles long with net increase of 965 vertical feet. For the most part the grades are moderately steep, but rarely to the point that you will need your hands. Early in the climb you begin to enjoy views of Tabletop, Gray, and of course Marcy with its frosty summit. The trail climbs to a false summit northeast of the main summit – a place with an outstanding view that includes both Marcy and Algonquin in one sweeping vista.
A slight descent into a shallow col leads to the base of the true summit, and the remaining climb is never as steep as it looks from afar. Colden’s summit is partly wooded, with good views toward the MacIntyres and partial views across the trees toward Marcy. A massive inclined cliff drops down toward Avalanche Lake more than 1,800 feet below you, although you can only see a corner of the lake from the summit. The markers that indicate the highest point may be hidden by winter snows, but look for a short side trail to the left leading to a rock amongst the trees.
There is a continuing trail across the summit that descends to Lake Colden, but this is an extremely steep route that is seldom used in winter and should only be used by experienced hikers.
Bill Ingersoll of Barneveld is publisher of the Discover the Adirondacks guidebook series (hiketheadirondacks.com) and author of Snowshoe Routes: Adirondacks & Catskills. For more on this region, consult Discover the Adirondack High Peaks by Barbara McMartin and Bill Ingersoll.
